The extension table come with the saw was not very sturdy nor does it provide much function at all. Being a garage woodworker, saving space is always on my mind. Make a cabinet as the extension table, will give me precious storage space also provide a large table surface and hopefully more rigid than the original stamp metal extension table. I also have a home made router life I build long time ago. So I will install that in the cabinet as well.
One challenge is how to support the cabinet. I could make it free standing and on caster, it is easier to make, but will make it impossible to level it with the cast iron table. The other option is to hang it on the table saw, that way it can move with the saw, and I can make sure it's always level with the cast iron table top. The challenge is how to securely the cabinet also be able to fine adjust the level.
From the picture you can see the base of the cabinet is bigger than the cast iron top. That give me the idea to have threaded rod support the top of the cabinet, so I can fine adjust it to level with the cast iron table top.
This is how the support looks, the vertical plywood will provide rigidity of the cabinet, then after I bolt the panel to the saw base, it's solid.
Here you can see how I sectioned the cabinet, there will be 3 drawers facing the front of the saw, the rest open on the side. In the middle is a place for the router lift. I did remotely based my idea on this plan.
Then, it's time to make all the drawers, It always surprise me how much plywood you need to make all the drawers. The drawers are pretty simple, nailed, glued together, I was always reluctant to try nail and glue, not really sure why, now I tried it, I think it's really fast andy sturdy way to build drawers. I used the full extension drawer sliders, they are cheap, sturdy and can be pulled out fully, so even the back of the drawers can be easily accessed.
Next is the cabinet top, I want to use the homemade router lift. Just need to figure out the opening and router out the slot to recess the hinge. I use the Festool guide and router to make sure the cut line is straight.
I plan to use one tall drawer to organize all the saw blades and other two drawers to organize router bits, one for 1/4 bits, one for 1/2 bits. For the saw blade organizer, I use some wood block and cut slots in it to keep the blade up right and not rattle. The slots are 1 inch apart. For the router bit, I used a 1 inch thick MDF and drilled 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch holes on a 1 inch grid.
For the drawer fronts, I used 3/4 inch pine, for the really tall ones, my pine board is not wide enough, I can glue up two boards and hide the line, but I went with adding a walnut trim, it's the same material as the drawer pull, came out pretty nice, I think.
I have two type of the drawer pull, for the front facing drawers, I used a trapezium shaped cross section walnut, for the drawer on the side, I just drilled 3/4 inch hole and cut a notch.
I was pretty happy with how the cabinet turned out: it fully utilized the space, and is pretty sturdy, perfectly flat with the cast iron table, and served as a router table.