Matthias' tenon jig looks very interesting, and even appearing after he demonstrated how to cut finger joints on it.
The deep cut and the ease to set up the jig just can't be beaten even by a box joint jig.
Build process:The ideal way to cut the joint for the lever is to use a tenon/box joint jig, but I don't have one, so I cut all the joints on a table saw sled. The result if great, it just I need to check/cut the final bit for every joint to a perfect fit, it was very time consuming. Well it's not that the snugness of the joint fit is important, it's just a joy to have a perfect fit joint. I use digital marking gauge to mark the joints.
my linear bearing was wider then the support rail. so I cut a divot on the other rail, so I can use the full travel of the linear rail.
the position of the slot on my table saw was in line with where the lower rail was mounted, that means if I mount the guide rail there, I need to remove the guide rail to remove the lower mounting rail. If I mount the guide rail further away from the saw blade, I lose some cutting capacity. So I mount the guide rail closer to the saw blade. that means I can't get the blade to touch the stock mounting plate. I cut a picec of 1/2 ply and fixed some magnet on it, so it will stick to the mounting plate. I actually think it's better than the original plan, b/c now I can swap out the 1/2 ply if they wear out.
The other change I made is how I mount the caliper. I cut two dado on two piece of maple they receive the caliper snugly. Only unscrew two screw to take out the caliper. The caliper is very helpful, if I want to do a one-off cut. I never under stand why Matthias said he prefer dial indicator, I guess that's just personal preference.